Brujo Bites

cuban

east vs. west + the rise of the o.g. sanguich

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miami-style cuban sanguich (the real o.g.)

There has been a war of sorts going on for a very long time and it centers around a simple, yet exquisite sandwich representing the heart and soul of a people. I’m speaking, of course, of the indomitable Cuban Sandwich. In an epic battle to lay claim as the originators of this gastronomic tour-de-force, Miami and Tampa have been locked in combat for decades. My grandmother told me that she used to eat the emblematic combination of roast mojo pork, sweet ham, queso suizo, pickles and mustard pressed between crispy bread, in cafes and around the sugar mills my grandfather worked for in Cuba. Back then, however, it wasn’t called a “Cuban Sandwich” or “Sanguich Cubano.” She knew it as “El Sanguich.” My mother remembers eating them as a kid in the early 50s at a restaurant called La Antigua Chiquita in Havana, which is still there to this day. Based on my family’s testimonials along with countless others from older Cubans that were there pre-revolution, the distinction goes to Cuba, “La Madre Patria,” as the true creator of the sandwich. I have found that actual life experience beats a historian’s second-hand account any day.

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how the piggy got its mojo

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roast mojo pork butt

Pork and mojo are as intertwined with Cuban culture as are congas and rum. From the moment we are old enough to eat solid foods, pork, or as we call it lechon, becomes an integral part of our culinary identity. Be it as a whole roasted suckling pig, chicharrones (crispy cracklin’), chorizos, or fried chunks called masitas–the pig is the noble animal that has fed generations with its delicious versatility and unambiguous delectability.

It is to Spain, however, that the Americas and the Caribbean owe the introduction of the magnanimous pig. Cuba was the first country in the Caribbean to be colonized by the Spaniards and due to this, Cuban food has deep-rooted ties to Spanish cuisine. Having been domesticated and used as a source of sustenance for millennia in Europe, pigs were brought by these Spanish explorers on their long journeys. De Soto, it is said, brought about 200 pigs with him on his expedition and it is believed that these were the ancestors of most now in the Americas. 

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sofrito basico

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Sofrito is the foundational basis for countless dishes, and every Cuban meal begins with a good sofrito. An ancient and perennial condiment dating back to at the 1400s, recipes for it are varied and handed down within families from generation to generation. Loosely translated as ‘lightly fried,’ Spanish explorers brought this cooking technique with them to the Americas and the Caribbean, where it spread to every country in which they set foot. Savory + aromatic, sofrito consists of ingredients such as onion, sweet or hot peppers, tomatoes, garlic and herbs like oregano, bay leaves and cilantro that are fried in a good quality olive oil. Depending on the region from which it is from, the sofrito can be red or green, chunky or pureed. There are even versions that add chorizo or ham. This particular version is the red and pureed kind, typical of the Cuban style. I encourage you to experiment with different varieties for different dishes to see which will be your own, personalized go-to.

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arroz con pollo

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Serving of freshly prepared hispanic chicken and rice dish with peas and asparagus.

We have been living in strange and unnerving times. Many of us are sheltering at home, perhaps while coping with a loss or the new responsibility of educating our own kids. As we all cope with the fallout of this unprecedented pandemic, it’s understandable to find oneself seeking out those things that bring comfort. These troubling times have made me ask myself­­–what can I do to help people cope and weather this uncertainty? Throughout my own life, I have always found solace in cooking. So I decided that I want to share the recipes that have brought me joy and peace throughout my life, along with tips and techniques acquired over my years as a professional chef. I’m going to show you how to prepare these tried and true recipes, and maybe while doing so I can share some of that same joy and peace that they have brought me. Hopefully, I’ll be able to entertain you with my stories, anecdotes and musings along the way.

Lately I’ve found myself thinking back to a simpler time when no matter what may have been happening in the world or in our lives, I just knew that everything was going to be okay. Surrounded by everything I loved and those who loved me, I would come to that certainty wrapped snugly in the safety and security of my home. We didn’t have much in those days, but we were happy. My parents worked hard to make sure that my brother and I would never be troubled by whatever situation they may have been grappling with. We had what we needed, even though at times my parents had to count their pennies and struggle to make ends meet. But one thing that was never in short supply in our house was warm, delicious food lovingly prepared in our kitchen. Looking back I’m grateful to have had such a blessing and a luxury in my life. So many wonderful memories and momentous occasions took place around our table. This is where I learned that food is more than just fuel, food is love!

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my kingdom for a timbita!

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guava and fresh farmer’s cheese pressed sandwiches on cuban bread and guava + queso blanco canapes

If you’re not familiar with it already, I’m going to introduce you to one of the simplest and most fantastically delicious snacks or desserts you’ll ever discover: the Cuban ‘timbita.’ An intoxicating combination of salty, effluvious cheese and sweet, exotic guava that takes nearly no effort to prepare. Elegant in its savory/sweet dynamic, timbitas have been a staple for Cubans since their creation in the 19th century. 

As the story goes, in the mid-1800’s, a group of European workers came to Cuba during a time of economic hardship in order to build a railroad to Havana. During their lunch time they noticed that their native Cuban counterparts would eat an odd sandwich made with sweet guava paste and baguette-style bread. The Cuban workers, all from the most humble of backgrounds, explained that most households in Cuba made some form of guava paste from the ubiquitous fruit, which grew everywhere on the island. 

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